Top tips on Makeup Application

Foundation

Make sure skin is prepared first before applying moisturise and letting it sink in before applying foundation and then using a primer. Primer will help make-up last longer, particularly if skin absorbs make- up.

Use a dabbing motion that pushes the product into the skin rather than wiping it on and off in the same movement, a brush, sponge or fingers all work well.

The biggest mistakes made with foundation are choosing the wrong colour and using too much. The right shade of foundation should disappear into the skin.

The best way to choose colour is by applying two to three colours on clean skin along the jawline so you can see it. Try in the light you will be wearing it in so if it’s a daytime make up then always look at it in natural light so you will see the true colour.

Blend each colour gently with your finger and the colour that disappears is the correct shade. Don’t be tempted to try and change your skin colour with a foundation, if you are pale then choose the colour that matches your skin exactly; you can warm up your tone with blush and bronzer. If you try and do this with your foundation you will end up with very obvious lines especially on the jaw line, there is no need to blend foundation down your neck if you have the correct colour!

Another mistake is using too much and using it all over the face. Foundation should give the illusion of perfect, flawless skin so use it to perfect and even out your skin tone; this may mean only using it where you need it, not necessarily all over the face.

This helps to stop it looking mask like so start with a small amount in the centre of your face and blend it outwards with a brush or fingers. Most of us tend to want more coverage in more problematic areas such as the t-zone, chin and nose so start here. By the time you have blended it outwards you will have very little left so will avoid those tell-tale signs of using too much and seeing foundation sitting in the hairline and eyebrows: not a good look!

My choice of foundation also depends on the skin type I am applying it to, so do select the right formula for your skin type to achieve the best finish.

Concealer

Concealer works well because it is made of a denser composition than most other cosmetics therefore it has more staying power and provides more coverage.

Remember- a little goes a long way.

Colours for concealer come in a variety of shades and should match the skin itself. Many concealers have a pink base which when placed over under-eye circles, which tend to be bluish or purple, can look grey. Golden toned concealers counteract purplish circles and give the appearance of a natural skin colour under the eyes.

There are instances when you may want to use a slightly lighter shade. For example, dark circles under the eyes that are many shades deeper than your normal skin colour

Application

•    Under the inner half of your eye where shadows will be darker


•    Blend towards the outer corner of the eye gently where there may be fine lines, press well into any creases


•    Apply concealer to the outer corner of the eyelids and to the inner corner near the tear duct to neutralise redness.


•    To neutralise a spot apply a yellow toned concealer directly on top of the spot and gently blend out.


•    Apply a little concealer around the corners of the lips, under the bottom lip and on top of the cupids bow


•    To reduce redness or broken capillaries on the cheeks or around the nostrils use a yellow toned colour

Powder

When using powder products such as eyeshadow or blush a light application of loose or pressed powder first is the best way to ensure smooth blending. Powder eyeshadow or blush applied directly to the skin will ‘’grab’’ in the oily areas creating a blotchy application.

Adding extra loose powder just under the eye, down the bridge of the nose and right under the bottom lip, at the start of your make –up application can result in subtle highlighting of these spots when you are finished.

Be careful when applying under eyes, gently blend away with a small brush and stretch the skin gently to ensure powder is blended and doesn’t exaggerate fine lines.

Eye shadows

Using a primer before eyeshadow will hide any redness and create a smooth base. If you are using a crème eyeshadow apply it on top, if you are using powder eyeshadow use a little translucent powder first to absorb any oil.

Use a light shade all over the eye before applying a darker colour. Always apply the dark shade at the point where you want the darkest colour, at the root of the lashes, crease of the socket line, outer edge of the eye then blend.

Light reflecting or pearlized shadow on the brow bone and corner of the eye open up the eyes making them look brighter.

Mix textures and finishes, matte and frost can be used together and some shimmery products can be blended over crèmes so it adheres to the eye area.

Mascara

Curl lashes before mascara application to open up the eyes not after.

Make sure the mascara wand is not overloaded, stroke the wand over the top of the top lashes from corner to corner, and then stroke the wand up the upper lashes from underneath, again from corner to corner.

Repeat this time moving the wand in a zigzag motion to coat the sides of the lashes. To add more volume to the roots of the lashes hold the wand vertically and push it directly up into the roots, from corner to corner. To coat the lower lashes, hold the wand vertically and sweep from side to side.

Use 3-4 thin layers of mascara to get that full look, not 1-2 thick ones and you will achieve a gorgeous full finish.

Brows

Brows are emphasised by defining the brow but also by highlighting the brow bone.

Create the illusion of fine hairs by drawing short feathering strokes that follow the pattern of hair growth; at the inner corner this is angled upwards, from the arch onwards horizontal or down.

Brow powder is better than eyeshadow; it is matte with no shimmer and less creamy, giving a less solid look.

The colour should complement hair colour, choose a shade lighter for a natural look or the same shade for a more dramatic effect.

Brunettes can use any shade of dark brown, blondes should use soft browns or taupe, redheads should use taupe, chestnut or auburn. If you have black hair use very dark brown or deep charcoal, black tends to be too heavy.

Only apply where you need to fill in or thicken the brow shape and avoid using all over if not needed.

Get the correct shape by holding a make-up brush from the corner of your nose to the edge of your inner eye to see where the brow should start, vertically from your nose through your iris to see the natural arch and the nose to the outer corner of your eye to see where to finish. Remember though that this is a guide only so doesn’t need to be exact!

Eye liner

Experiment with colours other than black and brown, eyeliner can complement or contrast with eyeshadow colour.

Eyeliner worked in between the roots of the lashes will make them look thicker.

Nude liner on the inner rim of the eyes makes them appear rounder.

Dark colour on the inner rim elongates the eyes, making them appear narrower. 

Close set eyes should keep eyeliner to the outer corners from the mid-point; this will be more flattering than a line all the way to the inner corner.

Blusher

Well applied blush should enhance the shape of the face and flatter bone structure.

Where you position blush and the texture you use can create different effects.

The classic application is blended from the apple of the cheeks along the cheekbone. This suits most face shapes.
Blush blended on the apple of the cheek only, gives a fresh, natural flush.

Prominent cheekbones slim the face- use a deeper colour than on the apples of the cheek, apply a small amount of colour in the hollow under the cheekbone, and blend well. Don’t go all the way to the hairline or too low towards the jawline.

Apply highlighter along the top of the cheekbone, just below and around the eye. Use fingers or a brush to blend. The different shades of blush should not overlap.

Balance the look by adding a touch of the contour colour at the temples. A square or heavy jaw might need a touch of colour along the sides of the jaw.

Bronzer

Apply with a small brush to control the application and avoid using too much.

Apply where the face would naturally catch the sun, along the forehead, bridge of the nose, chin and cheekbones.

Soften edges well.

Also remember to apply to the collarbone and neck to blend with the face.

Lips

Lip shape affects how to apply lipstick and also the colours to choose. Lips should be completely symmetrical for a perfect pout. Lip pencil is invaluable to create ‘perfect symmetry’ to the lips. Correct any irregularities by subtly drawing inside or outside the natural lip line.

•    Thin lips –use sheer, shimmery shades, dark colours make the lips appear smaller while light shades make lips appear fuller. For a fuller pout apply a dot of shimmering gloss on the centre of the lower lip and blend out.


•    Full lips- dark, matte textures make lips appear smaller. Avoid pale shades and shimmery textures that can make lips appear fuller. If the bottom lip is larger than the top use lip liner on the top only so they appear more evenly sized.

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